In August last year, we spent six days road tripping around the Northernmost Japanese island of 北海道 inAutumn. Our trip started and ended at the New Chitose Airport, and was focused around the Central and Eastern regions of the island plus the capital, 札幌. If you are thinking about spending some time exploring 北海道, don’t hesitate. You will find some stunning scenery, and in Autumn, you will be treated to flowers from all colours of the rainbow plus, there is a good possibility you will spot some wild deer with their fawns and potentially even bears (you’ll definitely see them if you follow this itinerary). I can guarantee that even on a rainy day, you will find something amazing.
One thing to be aware of when planning a trip here is that while 北海道 is not a huge place, it’s easy to be tricked into thinking you can get around the island quickly by road. Typically, the expressway speed limit is only 70km/h and the speed limits on other roads are 50km/h, so it’s not a quick trip. These speed limits are based on Winter conditions where the island is covered in snow and ice, but the limits remain the same all year round and it is tempting to go faster when you are driving there at other times but beware of police speed traps. So, that said, you can’t actually get around as quickly as you might think you can, especially given much of the expressways are also only single lane roads with limited places to overtake other vehicles.
Don’t worry about that though, just enjoy the trip, you can see so many amazing sights when you explore this unique island in a car. I will note though that in this itinerary we rarely dined at restaurants. Most of our meals were hotel breakfasts followed by instant food from convenience stores that we could easily eat while driving. Fortunately, I love maki rolls, so they made a quick, cheap, easy meal! I’m talking the equivalent of AUD $1-$2 per meal. One other thing to note is that this is a road trip, so this itinerary and times are based on having a car that you can drive yourself in. This trip would be much more difficult and require more time to do via public transport.
Just before I jump into it, I’ll also note that we booked this itinerary about two weeks before we went, and it turned out that the first weekend overlapped with Obon Festival (August 13-15), which meant accommodation was hard to find and expensive. We wanted to see the festival since we arrived on the 13th but sadly nothing happened in 札幌 at Odori Park even though it was advertised there would be.
Disclaimer:
This article is all our own experience. Everything we did was paid for by us, and no part of it was free or subsidised. That said, some of the links in this article are affiliate links, which means that I get a small commission if you click it and make a booking or purchase. I hope that you’ll use these links anytime you need to book a place to stay or activity! These small commissions help me to keep travelling so I can write and film more travel guides for you. I would never recommend anything I don’t or would not personally use!
Anyway, enough of that, into the itinerary! We stayed at 東京 Narita airport the night before (at the Toyoko Inn Kuko) we arrived in 札幌, so our flight landed at New Chitose Airport at midday.
Map Overview
Expand the map to enable and disable each day.
Day 1: Chitose to Sapporo via Lake Shikotsu
73km’s, approx 1 hour, 31 minutes.
- Arrive – 札幌 (Chitose), Domestic Airport Terminal, 1F
- Stacks of food options in the airport if you are hungry, we had lunch at Cobara-Hetta Indian Curry (Domestic Airport Terminal, 3F)
- Royce Chocolate World
- Located at the terminal Connecting Path on 3F aka Smile Road.
- Most of their dark chocolate is vegan.
- There are other attractions on Smile Road including Hello Kitty Happy Flight and Doraemon Waku Waku Sky Park if you have time. Unfortunately, we spent waaaaaaay too long at Royce Chocolate World!
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Lake Shikotsu
- Distance: 30km’s from New Chitose Airport, approx 36 mins.
- A gorgeous lake to drive past where the road follows the edge of the lake for a while.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- 6:45 pm: Hokkai Bon Odori dancing, 札幌 Summer Festival (everything was set up but nothing happened)
- Distance: 43km’s from Lake Shikotsu, approx 55 mins drive. It’s also about 400m walk from our hotel in 札幌.
- 価格： 720 yen p.p.
- We checked into our hotel first and parked the car there then walked to the 札幌 TV Tower.
- Stunning night time views looking back towards Okurayama Observatory.
- Read my review.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Stay: Hotel WBF Sapporo Chuo
- Superior Double Room, Non-smoking
- 価格： AUD $237.27 / night
- Breakfast included
- Parking: 1200 yen / night
- Earliest check-in: 3:00 pm
- Latest check-out: 11:00 am
- Read my review.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Day 2: Sapporo to Kushiro
301km’s, approximately 4 hours drive plus stops.
- Moerenuma Park
- Distance: 12km’s from the centre of 札幌, approx 24 mins.
- We spent about 40 minutes here, but it was rainy and things were closed because we were here too early.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Shiroi Koibito Park / Ishiya Chocolate Factory
- Distance: 19km’s from Moerenuma Park, approx 28 mins.
- 価格： Shiroi Koibito Park is free, however, the Ishiya Chocolate Factory self-guided tour is 600 yen p.p. but we found a discount coupon in the map book that came with our レンタカー.
- Read my review.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Distance: 7.1km’s from Shiroi Koibito Park, approx 15 mins.
- Take the escalator from carpark to Okurayama Observatory Ticket Office.
- 価格： 500 yen p.p for a round trip lift ticket to the Okurayama Observatory.
- The Okurayama Observatory Lift takes 5 minutes each way.
- Read my review.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Kushiro
- Distance: 315km’s, approx 4 hrs, 20 mins.
- Drive to Kushiro via the Doto Expressway.
- Stay: Route-Inn Kushiro Ekimae
- Twin Room, Non-smoking
- 価格： AUD $184.58 / night
- Breakfast included.
- Parking: 500 yen / night
- Earliest check-in: 3:00 pm
- Latest check-out: 10:00 am
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Day 3: Kushiro to Abashiri via Cape Kiritappu, Cape Nosappu and Rausu
445km’s, approx 8 hours, 40 minutes drive plus stops.
- Hamanaka
- Distance: 83km’s from Kushiro to Hamanaka, approx 1 hr, 33 mins.
- Cape Kiritappu
- Actually two capes that are very close together, Cape Kiritappu and Cape Tofutsu.
- You’ll find Tofutsu Lighthouse at Cape Tofutsu.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Cape Azechi
- Nemuro
- One of only a few places that you will find Japanese, Russian and English on the same signs.
- We passed through the southern side including Hanasakiminato on the way to Cape Nosappu and then went through the town of Nemuro on the way back out.
- Cape Nosappu
- Distance: 90.1km’s from Cape Azechi, approx 1 hr, 37 mins.
- Cape Nosappu Lighthouse
- Four Island Bridge
- Monument of peace representing a bridge betwen 北海道 and the four disputed Habomai islands.
- Part of Bokyonomisaki Park.
- Russian-controlled Habomai Islands
- Part of the disputed Kuril island chain.
- TripAdvisor Information
- Sasagawa Memorial Tower of Peace
- Closed when we visited so we skipped it
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Rausu
- Distance: 162km’s from Cape Nosappu to Rausu, approx 2 hrs, 20 mins.
- Rausu Kunashiri Observatory Deck
- 価格： Free
- You can look out to the very close Kunashir Island, the southernmost of the Kuril island chain which is under Russian control.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Distance: 162km’s from Cape Nosappu to Rausu, approx 2 hrs, 20 mins.
- Shiretoko Pass
- This is the route we took between Rausu and Abashiri.
- Closed during Winter.
- Windy road but stunning views, even if it is overcast like it was for us.
- Keep an eye out for wild deer on and near the road.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Abashiri
- Distance: 109km’s from Rausu via Shiretoko Pass, approx 2 hrs 30 mins
- You will want to stop along the way to take photos, trust me.
- Stay: Dormy Inn, Abashiri
- Modern Double Room, Non-smoking
- 価格： AUD $239.82 / night
- Breakfast included.
- Earliest check-in: 3:00 pm
- Latest check-out: 11:00 am
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Day 4: Abashiri to Kitami via the Akan National Park Lakes
Today we had to make it to Lake Akan in time for the Ainu Ancient Dance in the Ikoro Ainu Theatre and the Lake Akan cruise. Make sure to check your times carefully.
240km’s, approx 4 hours, 45 minutes drive plus stops.
- Lake Abashiri
- We just stopped on the side of the road on the way past and otherwise enjoyed it while driving.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Lake Akan
- A little bit of a tourist trap.
- One of the most well-known lakes in 日本 due to the Ainu village and the Marimo only found here.
- Distance: 86km’s from Abashiri, approx 1 hrs, 30 mins.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Ainu Kotan
- Walk around and see the hand carvings, including intricately carved buildings. There are many souvenirs for sale.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Ainu Ancient Dance
- Located at the Ainu Theatre Ikoro at the top of the Ainu Kotan.
- 価格： 980 yen p.p with a discount ticket from their website.
- Akan Lake Sightseeing Cruise Circuit.
- 価格： 1900 yen p.p.
- 85 minute trip including 15 minutes at the Marimo Observation Centre on Churui Island.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Pan de Pan Bakery
- Famous bakery.
- Get here as early as you can because they are pretty cleaned out in the afternoon.
- 1-6-6 Akancho Akankoonsen, Kushiro 085-0467. Ph: 08 (154) 674 188.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Lake Mashu First Observatory
- Distance: 49km’s from Lake Akan, approx 55 mins
- 価格： 500 yen per car to park at the first observatory
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Lake Mashu Third Observatory
- Distance: 3.5km’s from Lake Mashu First Observatory, approx 4 mins.
- 価格： Free
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Lake Kussharo
- Via Kawayu Onsen. This route takes you past Mt Io, a sulfur mountain (トリップアドバイザー). Parking is paid, and we didn’t have time to stop, but you can still take in the view on the way past!
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Ikenoyu Hot Spring
- Distance: 24km’s from Lake Mashu Third Observatory, approx 30 mins.
- 価格： Free
- Open-air onsen.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Kotan Onsen
- Distance: 3.5km’s from Ikenoyu Hot Spring, approx 7 mins.
- 価格： Free
- Open-air onsen.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Kitami
- Distance: 69km’s from Kotan Onsen, approx 1 hr 16 mins.
- Stay: Dormy Inn, Kitami
- Double room / Non-smoking,
- 価格： AUD $128.43 / night
- Breakfast included
- Earliest check-in: 3:00 pm
- Latest check-out: 11:00 am
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Day 5: Kitami to Furano via Sounkyo and Biei
215km’s, approx 4 hours, 40 minutes drive plus stops.
- Taisetsu Dam Wall
- Distance: 82km’s from Kitami, approx 1 hr 30 mins.
- Not a whole lot to see, but the surroundings are pretty.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Ginga-no-Taki and Ryusei-no-Taki falls
- Distance: 9km’s from Taisetsu Dam, approx 10 mins.
- Two separate waterfalls, but both are accessed via the same car park.
- Ginga-no-Taki TripAdvisor Reviews
- Ryusei-no-Taki TripAdvisor Reviews
- Daisetsuzan Sounkyo – Kurodake Ropeway
- Distance: 74km’s from Ginga-no-Taki and Ryusei-no-Taki falls, approx 1 hr 15 mins.
- 価格： 1900 yen p.p. round trip on the ropeway plus an additional 600 yen p.p. round trip to take the chair lift up even further.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- 北海道 Ice Pavilion
- Distance: 24km’s from Sounkyo, approx 35 mins.
- 価格： 1080 yen p.p. or 980 yen p.p with a discount ticket.
- Experience the -20°c ice hall and feel blasts of -41°c, the coldest temperature ever recorded in 北海道.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Hokuseino-oka Observatory Park
- Distance: 60km’s from the 北海道 Ice Pavilion, approx 1 hr, 21 mins.
- 価格： Free
- A pyramid shaped look out where you can see across hills covered in patchwork-like fields towards Furano.
- Try some of the fresh cooked corn on the cob from one of the neighbouring stores. YUM!
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Kanno Farm
- Distance: 9.2km’s, approx 13 mins.
- We didn’t stop here, we just enjoyed the beautiful flowers on the way past.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Rollercoaster Road
- Distance: 4km’s from Kanno Farm, approx 5 mins.
- Called “Path of the roller coaster” on Google Maps.
- This is just a road that is long and straight but somewhat resembles a roller coaster with lots of ups and downs. We used this route to get to Flower Land.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Flower Land Kamifurano
- Distance: 5km’s from Rollercoaster Road, approx 5 mins.
- Again, we didn’t stop here, we just went past it so we had some idea what to expect and could make a decision about whether to come back in the morning or go to Farm Tomita.
- You can see lots of the flowers from the road, but we ultimately decided to go to Farm Tomita in the morning instead.
- Website
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- 富良野
- Distance: 20.2km’s from Flower Land Kamifurano, approx 30 mins.
- Stay: Furano Fresh Powder Apartments
- Studio Apartment with Fireplace,
- 価格： AUD $230.70
- Breakfast not included
- Earliest check-in: Between 3pm-6pm only.
- Latest check out: 10:00 am
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
Day 6: Furano to Chitose via Shirogane and Bear Mountain
280km’s, approx 4 hours, 55 minutes drive plus stops.
- 白金青い池
- Distance: 36.5 km’s from Fresh Powder, approx 45 mins.
- A stunning, vibrant blue pond made famous when Apple included it as a wallpaper on OS X.
- Get here first thing in the morning if you can to avoid the hoards of people. We arrived at 8:20 am and the car park was nearly empty. By 9:00 am when we left, the closest parking lot was full and the second one was almost full too.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Shirahige Waterfall
- Distance: 2.9 km’s from Blue Pond, Shirogane, approx 4 mins.
- Flows into Blue Pond and has the same brilliant blue water.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Farm Tomita
- Distance: 28.4km’s from Shirahige Waterfall, approx 35 mins.
- Lunch at Farm Tomita – try one of their many lavender dishes and drinks.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- Bear Mountain, Bear Research Centre, Shintoku
- Distance: 77 km’s from Farm Tomita, approx 1 hr 23 mins.
- Take the Armoured Bear Watching Bus.
- 価格： 2,916 yen p.p.
- Either take the bus, or walk the high rise walkway over the forest back to the information centre.
- トリップアドバイザーの口コミ
- New Chitose Airport
- Distance: 131 km’s from Bear Mountain, approx 1 hr 47 mins
- Our flight out was at midnight, but we had to return the レンタカー by 6:00 pm to make sure we got on one of the last shuttles back to the airport.
Summing Up
This is a pretty full itinerary. The distances are not long, but the speed limits do mean it takes longer to get between destinations. In fact, almost every night we arrived at our hotel after dark with the exception of Furano where we arrived just before dusk. That said, we aimed to leave by 8:00 am every morning. We didn’t always leave that early, but if you prefer shorter days, be prepared to cut some things out. On a side note, a lot of these hotels have their own onsen’s, so you might prefer to take a little extra time in the evenings to enjoy that.
Been there?
Been to 北海道 and done a road trip? What are your must-see attractions? Let me know in the comments below!
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